2018 has been the year of National Parks. From the snow-capped mountains of Glacier National Park in Montana, to the sand castle-esque formations of the Badlands in South Dakota, I was fortunate to see some life-altering views this past calendar year.
When planning my visit to the Grand Canyon in October, I wanted to squeeze in as much as possible while in the state of Arizona. After doing some research, I came across the Petrified Forest National Park in the Northeast quadrant of the state.
Petrified Forest? Huh?
I had never heard of this place, so I searched for pictures on Google Images - the results were less than flattering - it looked like a barren wasteland. I thought to myself, "Is this even worth the drive?". After some thinking, I decided to at least give it a try. I booked a hotel on Historic Route 66, and tried to find some attractions to explore at and around the park.
Petrified Forest National Park
So what exactly is the Petrified Forest? Simply put, the state of Arizona used to be located near the center of the equator (many many years ago) when the earth had one continent (Pangea). Try to picture Costa Rica (a lush and dense rainforest). That used to be Arizona. After years of sediment buildup (through tropical floods and volcanic eruptions), the forests (and wood) stayed protected under the layers of ash/sediment. Over the years, the mineral buildup within the wood created petrified wood.
When you visit the park today, it looks like someone dumped piles of wood throughout the landscape. Though it looks like firewood, the stumps and logs are hundreds of pounds in weight and are rock-hard. Some of the rocks even look like geodes.
What to do at Petrified Forest
Route 66
The Petrified Forest is the only national park that historic Route 66 runs through. Whether you are in the park or nearby, there are nostalgic nods to the former heartbeat of American tourism. As you approach the park, you are entrenched within a past time. Roadside service stations, small diners, and neon signs litter the 2-lane highway. Once you arrive in the park, you can see a monument dedicated to the old road. An old T-Bucket car and the old telephone poles that are lined up through what is now a field. The park is worth just seeing this small slice of Americana.
Visit the Painted Desert Inn
As you drive the scenic road throughout the park, you will come across an inn that nearly blends in with the landscape it sits within. Be sure to park and check it out!
The Painted Desert Inn, built in the 1920s, utilized actual petrified wood within its frame. Over the years, it has served many purposes, from lodging railroad workers to hosting workers from the Fred Harvey Company. Today, it stands as a museum; a memento of the architecture and culture of the past. Artwork from the nearby Hopi tribe and pictures of the inn over the years are present. The furniture, appliances, and decorations are as they were over half-a-century ago.
Newspaper Rock
Unlike any other National Park that I had been to, Petrified Forest has a great deal of recognized Native history. In addition to the beautiful and unique landscape, there are several remnants of ancient living present throughout the park.
One of the coolest examples of this is Newspaper Rock. The rock contains over 600 (SIX HUNDRED?! petroglyphs), with carvings spanning over 2000 years. You can't help but think about what life was like at that time; day-to-day living, culture, etc. What were they communicating? Did they expect their work to last centuries beyond their lived experience? When you see the symbols, it does not seem too far off of the drawings you may see today. These were normal, everyday people like us. They had needs, wants, fears, and hope. It is quite humbling to see the work.
Crystal/Jasper Forest
Crystal and Jasper Forest are the best examples of what this area of Arizona used to look like. As you walk along the trail, it is hard to imagine the sandy/ashy ground to be a dense forest, full of wildlife. Stumps and logs are omnipresent. It honestly feels like you are on another planet.
Best aspect of Petrified Forest
Remember - I almost decided against going to this place. When I came across the park on the internet, no one thing stood out to me. I don't see a ton of videos and ads for this place on social media.
That is the best part about this place.
There is always the expectation vs reality when it comes to visiting a National Park. You expect a beautiful and untouched land. You (and your travel buddy) are alone and have the place to yourselves. The quietness is abundant.
In reality, this is true...to a degree. The natural beauty of the park is breathtaking. You will see sights that are unparalleled.
You will also see an overwhelming amount of people.
Many times, I feel like I am at an amusement park, floating in a sea of people. You may have to circle around a massive parking lot 5 times to find a singular spot. Hiking on the trail means that you have to step aside multiple times to let others pass. "Peace and quiet" may be more elusive than seeing a wild animal. There are positive aspects to this, such as safety. However, it would be nice every once in a while to have less chaos.
As I pulled into the park entrance for Petrified Forest, I was expecting the normal wait. Typically, you are waiting 5 minutes at the gate to purchase your ticket into the park. However, I breezed right though. This made me skeptical. I continued to the Visitor Center, and the trend continued. Only a few cars (including the employees') were present. Was this park even open?
Throughout the park, I tended to see the same 7-10 people. And it was GLORIOUS. I felt like I had rented out the whole place to myself.
The best moment took place near "Kachina Point". It was early in the morning; the crisp, cool air was warmed only by the shining sun. I parked my car near The Painted Desert Inn, and stumbled upon a sign near the patio of the inn.
As I read the sign, I felt something uncommon: fully in the moment. Suddenly, I was aware that I was alive and human - connected to those before and those beyond my years on this earth. The empowering sign made me consciously aware of this moment and amplified the feeling. I put my phone in my pocket, and started down the hill. The narrow, switchback trail had me curious of what was to come. As the hill started to level out near the bottom, I was able to see the trail and prairie ahead - miles of nothingness. And I realized something.
I was alone.
Initially, it kinda freaked me out. After the brief nerves, I shed those emotions and felt a burst of jubilation. I had this trail at a National Park ALL TO MYSELF. I understand my privileges as a male (and the added anxieties of being alone as a different gender). However, it was an unbelievable experience. The only thing I heard while on the trail was my out-of-shape deep breathing. After a few minutes of pushing through, I would stop to listen. The silence was deafening. It was almost as though the silence was pressing on my ears. A gentle breeze would provide an audible sound here and there.
So there you have it. If you are ever in Arizona, take a little less time at the Grand Canyon and allow yourself to check out the Petrified Forest. Also, if there is a place that seems meh, give it a chance! It may become one of your favorites.
-MT